Christmas day on Utila is a quiet one. Most of the visitors are nursing hangovers and skyping  with their families back wherever home is. Most of the businesses take the day off, leaving those of us who haven’t stocked our kitchens to wander the streets in search of someone to cook for us. It’s early in the […]

Read more "A Very Merry Christmas Story"

Leathery tanned skin stretches over his lean, bare torso. Decades of aggressive Caribbean sunshine have etched lines of experience into his tired face. He holds a spindly fishing rod in one hand as he approaches the boat and mumbles something almost incoherent. “Sorry, no room today,” states the dive instructor standing on the dock, while […]

Read more "Welcome to Hell"